Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Amazing Puja

Puja and More

Yesterday and today I was privy to an amazing event here at the house. The family had arranged for 7 monks, 2 of which are Lamas, to perform a ritual called a Puja. This particular ritual had been set up to last 2 entire days, basically from 7:30 a.m. until 5:30 p.m. During a Puja, monks chant prayers in a specific order for the specific purpose of the Puja. This Puja was to alleviate the family and household from negative energy, sins, and future sins, and in place, to restore only good energy and blessings. The monks used two 5 foot long horns, 2 flutes, 2 monotone flutes, 2 drums and a pair of cymbals. At specific intervals, when the prayer called for it, the monks would proceed to play in a melodic fashion. The tone was extremely guttural but very pleasant, as it held serious religious significance for all involved.

During a specific chant, the family was encouraged to join the monks in the altar room. On command, we were instructed to throw bird seed on the floor. This was a representation for casting out evil and sins. Following the bird seed, small figurines which had been placed on a 2 by 2 piece of plywood were taken from the altar room and each was thrown in a direction, hopefully covering all four corners of the earth. Then, the monks went back to their chanting and the family and bystanders left. This Puja has been one of the highlights of my trip so far.

Some Pujas are small and private while others are large community wide events. This particular one was a small affair attended by the immediate family, and siblings and their families. This was a wonderful opportunity for me to meet and interact with close relatives of the family I am staying with. Everyone was so welcoming and genuinely interested in my well-being, that I was again reminded of the hospitality of Bhutan as a nation.

On top of the Puja, these last 5 days have been part of a countrywide celebration. On the 21st of February, His Majesty, The King, marks the anniversary of his birth. Since he is known has the people's King, it was fitting then that he took his birthday and gave it back to the people in the form of Education Day. This day was marked with celebrations throughout the country, acknowledging the many differing forms that education can take. At my school, we held a half day event with speeches, cultural dancing displays and posters. It was exciting to see my first "school event".

So, after lunch on Monday, I have been free, as the 22nd and the 23rd are part of the holiday. Tuesday I just went into town and walked around. It was the most spectacular day in terms of weather. Spring has begun to sprout and the sky was crisp and blue. As the day progressed, some clouds began to form, but nothing serious. Today, I returned to Dochula Pass with an American friend who was not able to go to the Pass when the teachers went East. I had been telling him that he needed to see it, but it wasn't until he got up there that he understood. His mouth was gaping open basically the entire time we were up there. Again, it was a clear day and the view was amazing.

So, my mini-vacation is now in the history books, so to speak. Tomorrow it will be school again, and since the birthday celebration is complete, the real work/classes begin. Until later, signing off, having spent a wonderful last few days.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Snow Day

Today was a snow day. Well, sort of. It was really more of a slippery day. Because the roads have one side that goes straight up and one side that goes straight down, if there is any snowfall, they pretty much close everything. So, my school was closed. And, of course, I took the opportunity to go shopping. (Recently a friend from Milwaukee had suggested that she needed some retail therapy and I thought it sounded like a good idea!)

As I walked down the hill/road to the taxi stop to catch a cab to town, I noticed a long line of trucks stopped on the road on the other side of the small valley. When I caught the taxi, I asked why the trucks were stopped. The driver replied that the Pass was closed. It was such a sight to see trucks lined up waiting for the Pass to open.

I had arranged to meet a friend after school and go with him to get data sticks. (Data sticks are equivalent to Wi-Fi but at turtle speed - the speed of dial-up!) I texted him to say I was free all day and we met up an hour later at a coffee shop.(Did I forget to mention that I now have a cell phone?) We proceeded to go get our data sticks, which in itself was quite an adventure. (Did I ever explain that the Bhutanese really have no concept of a line!) After an hour, I emerged with a smile on my face, feeling rather self confident. However, that feeling was short lived. When I got home and tried the dumb thing, it worked sometimes. So, maybe if I let it sit for awhile, it will come to it's senses.

So, school tomorrow, but not really. Since Monday is the King's birthday, and he has declared it Education Day, we are practicing for a program that will take place on Monday. After that, we have 2 days of holidays and then the really teaching begins.
So, until further notice, I will sign off. I will attempt to post this weekend, hopefully.

Monday, February 14, 2011

Inservice, check

Inservice is officially over and done. Now the fun begins.

There are many similarities as well as many differences between school here in Bhutan and school in the Western world. To begin, it appears that students are in charge of cleaning. I'm not just talking about a little cleaning. They arrive early and clean the grounds, picking up small twigs and pine cones, garbage, etc. Some will be in charge of sweeping and some will be in charge of their assigned flower gardens. Either way, it is their responsibility to maintain their areas as it is a reflection of themselves. Interesting, isn't it?

The week of inservice consisted of basically everything I expected. The only difference is the terminology and of course the language. The discussions often started out in English for my benefit, and then quickly change to Dzongka as the conversations picked up speed. It takes great effort to attempt to follow an academic conversation in Dzongka. Thank goodness that some words don't really translate, like Internet, which by the way we DON'T have at school, attendance, etc. But, with a little effort, I don't expect the transition to be that drastic.

I received my teaching load. I will be teaching class (grade) 5, 6, and 7 English. The textbooks (basils) have story after story with culminating activities to do that will stress speaking, listening, reading and writing. It will be interesting to see how the students respond. From everything I have heard, it might take an act of god to get them to speak in class. I will find out tomorrow and let you know.

The campus is up on the top of a "hill?" or some might call it a mountain. Either way, it is difficult to dress for the weather up there. And by the way, did I mention that the classrooms are not heated. Thank goodness I brought plenty of SmartWool soxs! But I have a suspicion that I might feel guilty wearing mittens in class.

Currently I am living with a Bhutanese family. I am learning to live in a Bhutanist manner, which basically means no furniture. We eat sitting on the floor, we watch tv sitting on the floor, etc. Did I mention that rice three times a day is more than I ever imagined?

Well, off to prepare for tomorrow. Wish me luck.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Losar Tashi Delek

Tashi Delek

Where to start? On Thursday, it was New Years. If fact, on Friday it was New Years also! So, what an auspicious start to this new adventure and New Year to have 2 New Years Days. How lucky. As a group, we celebrated with Nancy, the Executive Director, at her house. She graciously served us many wonderful dishes that she said we would not get once we left. It was a wonderful send-off celebration and a great way to start the New Year with new friends in a new place.

On Friday, we loaded our things up on 2 buses and two Tolyota trucks and headed out. We looked like a pack of Gypsies. On the top of the buses were things like mattresses, suitcases, gas cylinders and the stoves, etc. It was quite a sight as we drove out of Thimphu.

We proceeded up a pass in the mountains and arrived at DochuLa Pass. As we reached the summit, and by the way, here it is difficult to tell when and or where the summit will be, the view was amazing. At DochuLa, there is a temple and a memorial to a one-day military action which drove out some Tibetians a while back. (Apparently the Tibetians relocated themselves in a valley and refused

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to leave, and the Fourth King had to take action.) Did I say that the view is absolutely amazing. This view ranks right up there as one of the best I have ever seen.
 
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So from there, we traveled down the other side into Wangdue province. We were lucky enough to visit the Punakha Dzong.
 

 

 

The Dzong used to be the capitol of Bhutan until one of the King’s moved it to Thimphu. This Dzong sits at the point of two rivers, and is probably the most photographed Dzongs in all of Bhutan. The large monk body from Thimphu is in residence there for the winter. As we entered the Dzong, their chanting became more and more distinct. Our leader, Karma, took us into the courtyard and explained the festival that will take place in a few days. At the end of the festival, a large three story Thunka will be unrolled which will conver blessings on all those attending. Wish I could be there for that!

Traveling toward the hotel, we managed to squeeze in a hike up to a famous temple; home to Guru somebody who is said to have had divine powers,along with other things. After arriving at the hotel, we were treated to a wonderful dinner and some farwell good wishes. During Nancy’s farewell remarks, the lights started to shake a bit and we got to expereince our first earthquake. Even though it wasn't an actual earthquake, it really was just a tremor, nothing fell or was displaced. In fact, some of the group who were seated at the table, missed the event all together! However, it is good to note that the platetechtonic boundary which creates the Himalayins is still active.

This morning after an early breakfast, we said our goodbyes. The 2 buses were off to Bumthang while I was in a car travelling to Phojikha and other parts to drop off 3 other teachers. The trip to Phojikha was quite an adventure. We climbed up the side of a mountain, and looking down from the crest, saw one of the most beautiful valleys in the world. If there is such a place as Shangri-la, I think I saw it today. On the way down into the valley I glimpsed several yaks grasing on wild bamboo. Once into the valley, I was able to spot a pair of black-necked cranes. The black-neck cranes are a seriously endangered animal. There are approximately 300 or so of them in the world. What makes these birds so incredible, in my option, is the fact that they MIGRATE OVER THE HIMALAYINS! That’s right, each winter they fly from their home in Southern Tibet to the Phojikha Valley in Bhutan. The car was able to stop at the vistor’s observation center where there were 3 powerful telescopes for use. I was able to watch these spectacular birds prune and dance around. It was a sight I will never forget.

Now we are stopped at a road block. The “main” roads here are like one and a half car winding paths that we might find in the Smokey Mountains: you know the ones where it is impossible to go more than 25 mph, with one side straight up and one side straight down! But to look across the valley to the other side is incredible. The mountain sides are dotted with the classic Bhutanese houses and terraced fields. Just breathtaking!

So, for right now, that’s about it. I think that this day has been absolutely spectacular, having seen my first yak AND black neck cranes. How lucky am I to be in such a beautiful place having the experience of a lifetime. And to think, school hasn’t even started yet, and you all know how I enjoy teaching!!!!!!